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Hvar náðiru þér í svona vél?

Ég las einhverntíman hérna á þessu spjalli að svona vél væri að andvirði um 500-700k hérlendis.

Það myndi vera rétt,
svona vél kostar núna um það bil 5000€ og svo flutningur, tollur og VSK
= slatti

Ég verslaði hana frá þýskalandi frá Steinmuller Tuning

Svalt. Fékkstu þá líka kassann með vélinni? S.s. úr E36 bíl.

Komu upp einhverjir stórir erfiðleikar að setja þessa vél í ?

Ég sá að Óskar tók samann swappið sitt ,, ég man að ég gerði það líka þegar ég swappaði fyrst og hérna er það .. ég fann þetta á danskri e30 síðu ekkert týnist á netinu
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S50B30 engine "kit":
Engine : BMW S50 B30 OBDI ´94 M3 Euro model,
Gearbox : ZF M3 5speed Transmission,
ECU : original M3 units,
Wiring : original M3
Radiator : Original M3
Exhaust : Original M3
Gearshift mechanism : Original M3, I am using the stock M3 shifter too, I got these parts from Germany
I bought this since I was not able to get a hold off a 3,2engine, but since I have no idea on how to wire the OBDII to the E30, I am glad I got this engine,

Motor mount bushings:
Driver side: M5 E34, BMW dealer
Pass. : M5 E28, BMW dealer
I should have bought the M5 e28 on both sides
Shims, few, local hardware store

Transmission mounting: stock E30 M20 325i parts with M3 bushings,

Driveshaft:
E36 325i Manual shaft with my e30 driveshaft hanger,
Note: It will not fit to the S50 Euro as it has the same front shaft as the M5 E34, Z3 M and M coupe, I had to mod it to fit. I got the driveshaft from a used parts place in Iceland, it was the only e36 325i driveshaft available in the country used,

Special made E36 driveshaft M3 transmission flange converter,
Diff: stock, but will replace with 3,25LSD

Brakes
stock brakes,
732i Master and booster,
Boost pressure distributor from 528i E28,
This was a must since no Vacuum assisted stock BMW part would never ever fit there, this almost doesn´t

Cooling:
E30 320i coolant reservoir from the same used parts place,
I put it where my battery was as that is the same place as in the Euro M3,
Hoses, various from my e30 M20, some where cut and whatnot,
Electric Fan from some Jap car, mounted in front of the radiator, runs all the time,

Fuel,
Filter , original M3
Fuel pump, stock E30,
Lines, used from my M20,

Exhaust:
Original M3 headers,
Original M3 middle muffler,
All new straight "2,25 x 2 with 4 "2,25 mufflers in the back with "3 tailpipes,

Oil system:
Stock E30 oil cooler,
Mobil 1 oil,
E34 M50B25 Oil pan and pickup, also new oil dipstick from e34 525i

Air Filter:
K&N Cone,
17cm long
13cm wide
and 95cm wide hole for mounting to intake,

Now on to the conversion:

First everything except the fues box and ABS and steering rack
have to be removed from the e30 engine bay, that includes driveshaft and trans.

I got a garage to swap the pans, so I am not going into details here, they also removed the stock AC unit wich is of no use to me,

Then it´s installing the engine,

Now don´t try and do it with the headers on that will not work, they will have to be done later, and same goes for the trans.

Posistioning of the S50B30 and driveline
:
This is not like your normal M50, the head is bigger so it has to sit a bit further front then a M50, From where the stock mounting holes on the subframe are my engine sites about 1,5cm more in the front, this can be accomplished by cutting into the subframe and raising the lip that would otherwise be in the way of a ratched to tighten the bushings in, this is the cheapest and quickest way, the subframe is plenty strong to withstand this mod,

now I did not do this and the exhaust company did not want to install the exhaust until my engine was a bit further so

I had to do this since it was slightly touching the firewall, I used shims to raise the engine a bit as it was sitting quite low in the car, they where of the same diameter as the bushings,

I used the outside holes on the subframe as refrence for the bushings as the engine mounting points are wider then E30

Pos of the trans: Since there are rails that can move the trans any way this is not a problem, just bolt it to the engine, it is tight back there if the engine has been fastened, I would recommend to have the engine hanging and more in the front then the back, that will create some space for the gearbox installation, then just bolt the e36 mounts to the e30 mount holder,

Driveshaft : The front shaft has to be one from a M3 E36 euro or M5, there are no other possibilities except to do what I did, I had a shop create a spacer plate that would allow me to fasten the e36 325I shaft to the the M3 rubber joint, I had the shop put my drivehaft together using my old 325I e30 hanger, and e36 325I rear shaft it bolts up perfect to the driveshaft, remember to make dots on the driveshaft before dissasembling it,

Diff : Any E30 diff from a e30 325I will "work", but the optimum is the E30 M3 3,25LSD or M coupe 3,25LSD or a Z3 M diff, it will just bolt right in like the previous diff,

Cooling :

Cooling fan : The stock fan will not be able to stay, there is no way whatsover, a auxilary electric fan is the choice, I used one from a Jap car, I used the motor and two holding arm from the stock unit, I positioned the fan in the middle of the grill so it would be most visible, I am not going into how I did it as you would not find a identical fan so the installation would not be usable,

Radiator: I used the stock radiator, I There where some holes on top of it and they kinda angled against some holes on the e30, so I stuck some bolts there and screwed them inn, I used straps in the bottom, I simply found some places to put them and used some hole on the bottom of the radiatior, I don´t think this is the best looking way but it works very well,

Cooling hoses from Raditator to Engine: I used the stock ones form the engine and they fit nicely, but after the engine was moved more forward, the return hose(I think) on the drivers side on top is somewhat restricted so it doesn´t flow enugh coolant at low rpms and driving speeds, I will fix this somehow, The engine stays in the first quarter when driving but goes to the middle and above when driving slower,

Reservoir tank: I made a holder that would hold it upright in the battery tray up front, I know most put it where it is in the later model e30´s when doing a M50 conversion but since the e36 M3 has it there I decided not to try and route it around the engine and just put it there, I did get a long plastic line that comes from the radiator and goes to the reservoir, I had to add some hose to it to make in work,

hoses that go into the car: I had to saw some off the extruding coolant lines coming from the car to get the hoses to fit, it was very tight, not as much after the engine was moved, I believe I sawed about 1,5-2cm off the lines, I used some E30 M20 hoses, wich I don´t know where come from, but they where the excact length and angles and worked very nice, it was very tight getting the hose clamps on, I did remove one off the intake runners to get to it, it was still very tight,

NOTE: you must change the e30 coolant heat sensor with the E36 one, so the instruments will be showing correct heat,

I think thats it regarding cooling,

Brakes :

I had to use a Hydraulic Brake Booster from 7´s and 5´s from the 80´s with M30´s J , I wonder who understand this sentence,

I got the master and booster from a 732I ´81 with 712.000km, and it still works like charm,
I got the pressure distributor and brake bomb from a 528I ´84,
Reservoir from a ´84 528I
Some people put this above the master and boost but I felt that there was not enough space there, So I put it above the ABS system on the inside fender, I put the P/S reservoir where the fuel pump relay is normally on the E30, I hooked the distributor to the P/S pump and steering rack and brake booster,
the reservoir has got 4 lines attachement possibilities, the bottom one is the steering rack, the one above that is the P/S pump, then there are 2 little ones, the lower is the brake booster, then the distributor,
NOTE: make 100% sure you fit it 100% correctly before starting, I hooked the pressure to the reservoir part of the brake booster and blew a gasket or seal, so be careful,
another NOTE: you will need custom plumbing for all the hoses, I got a hydraulic shop to do it,

The actual pedal shaft on my booster is to long for the e30, so my brake pedal is pretty high up, but I will have to learn a new heel and toe to work it,

I did not change the brakes as it has ABS and I don´t track or drive really fast,

I had to bend the intake boot on the engine to make space for the master, I also used 2 shims on the passenger side of the boost bolts to push the master away from the engine, I used the stock e30 brake fluid reservoir tank.

I would recommend a remote vacuum system as it would be a lot easier
I think thats it for brakes, not much fun haa,

Intake:
K&N filter,

I have to push it slightly to the left so it will clear the radiator, wich is fine, I will have to find a 90deg knee one off these days, so the filter will be directly above the ABS unit,

Wiring:
I was given wiring instructions for the M50 conversion and they worked well, although my color code was different by 2 wire posistions, I did not hook up the oil level sensor,

I had to move the battery to the trunk, I used a 90gauge wire wich was put trough the firewall and on the passenger side under the rear seats and into the trunk, In the trunk I have got a 890 cold start amp battery wich fit very nicely, I wanted to make sure it would always start no matter what,
the battery cable was mounted to a wire plate wich was made from some sort of carbon/something, it bolts to the car, the + wired where then attached to the plate, in the trunk the negative cable is fastened to the power lock unit for the fuel cap door fastening bolt, in the engine bay one - was put where the old reservoir was, another one was bolted to the steering rack, it had to be lengthened,

I don´t have the C101 wiring with my so email for it,

I was told to hook up the ecu to the speedometer so the ecu would have it´s stock max speed limit, I just skipped that, so there is no speed limit,

In my e30 the tach is not a part of the C101 so I had to fish it out of the original wiring and simply hook the 2 together,

Gearshift mechanism:
I used all E36 M3 parts, the shifter touches the interior, I will have to find some other shifter but this works very well now, a e36 m3 short shifter would not hit the interior,

Exhaust : The headers needed 16 hours of changing until they would fit and still be equal lenght, Then the exhaust only has the M3 original middle muffler and some straights in the back, the exhaust has got the M3 o2 sensors, it´s stock size all the way back where splits to each side to create a look somewhat like the new M3 has but with "3 tailpipes, This was seriously costly to do,

I think thats about it for the conversion,
Although I might be forgetting something,

Almost all parts are custom installed in someway or another,

NOTE : This is absolutly not a weekend job, thats for sure, it might be a month job if you have all the parts in you garage, and I really mean it
It took a couple of months to get the engine, and the rest was collected as I went along, it has taken all in all from September 2000 till November 2001, and the car did not operate until last month
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Tvær spurningar...

Er ekki slæmt að láta viftuna ganga stöðugt? Mér skildist það þarna...

Og svo sagðiru að þú sért með default 325i bensíndælu og slöngur.. er það enginn flöskuháls fyrir þessa vél þína?

Flott maður!

Ekkert voðalega gáfulegt að vera á hálf-bremsulausum bíl með allt þetta vélarafl Jafnvel þó þú værir ekki með allt þetta vélarafl

Síðan hvenar hefur hann Gunni verið eithvað gáfulegur. það eru bara geðbiðaðir gaurar sem gera svona, lagað. Við erum álíka klikkaðir nema ég er ekki blífótur ég er ´blíðfótur .

"Fear disturbs your concentration."

Síðan hvenar hefur hann Gunni verið eithvað gáfulegur. það eru bara geðbiðaðir gaurar sem gera svona, lagað. Við erum álíka klikkaðir nema ég er ekki blífótur ég er ´blíðfótur .