bebecar wrote:
Já - það gæti nefnilega vel verið - ertu með einhver skynsamleg upgrade í huga sem ég gæti spáð í?
Ég mun nú reyna að æfa mig eitthvað hér í nágrenninu fyrst - það er ein góð braut hér nálægt og ég reyni að komast á track day þar fyrst.
Ég held að þú ættir að skoða það sem specialisten er með í sambandi við diskakælingu fyrir þig,
því að það getur gert mikið fyrir endinguna og endurtekna virkni.
og Ingvar þú gætir þurft að skipta yfir í harðarri klossa áður enn þú runnar brautina til að ekki lenda í neinum vandamálum, þ.e keyra að brautinni og skipta eða skipta heima áður en þú ferð, og skipta svo aftur þegar þú kemur tilbaka, aðeins samt ef harðarri klossarnir henta ekki í daglegum akstri, en það þarftu eiginlega að prufa,
Einnig að finna þér almennilegann bremsuvökva,
Dburke wrote:
To those who are track whores just ignore me, you already know this.
I was inspired to write this after reading some posts here earlier.
So you want to come on out to a DE, HPDE, BMWCCA school etc., etc. If you haven't done this before its the most punishment that you are going to put your car through. I don't care where or how you drive on the street. I'm just going to give you the heads up.
Car Prep
If you think that something is shady just replace it. It will be less expensive in the long run.
Brakes
A properly functioning stock system is fine, what do you think EVERY IT car in the country has on it? You should have recent brake fluid, freshly bled no more than 3 months old, it should be clean and of a high performance variety. The Valvoline stuff is available at most auto part stores as well as the Ford DOT 3 which is the same stuff as the PF Z rated brake fluid, if you want to step it up a notch go for something from ATE or Motul. Pads, if you have "no-name" brake pads on your car make sure you have a lot of pad left, more than 75%. Pretty much anything from Pagid, PF, Hawk, Carbotech, Cobalt is good stuff. Call these people and get the right pad for your application, don't order blindly. SS lines are a luxury, not a neccesity.
Engine
Since we all go 3000 miles on oil changes if you are over 2000 miles since your last change, change the oil. Use something with a brand name, not the $.50 a quart stuff. Kendall, Valvoline, Pennzoil, Castrol GTX, and if your synthetic do it up as well. Cooling hoses and upper/lower radiator inlet/outlet, check these, they are the weak spot on BMWs, they blow off, break etc. makes coolant go on the ground (thats where your tires are) and then you or the guy behind you crashes. Oh and if you have wires everywhere from some half-wit project from three years ago, clean it up, you won't pass tech. Check accessory drive belts. Also, check the mounting bolts on all accessory brackets, these like to leave, its happened to me 3 times, (Loctited now).
Tires
Are they round, black and hold air? You are all set. Just make sure you don't show up with some dry rotted something or other, you won't pass tech. Gimme at least a V speed rating.
Interior
If you've got some bump, leave it at home. Take all the loose chit out. You will find all the change in the car the first time that you brake for the corner after the longest straightaway. Don't buy those rally belts, stockers are fine and don't use a harness if you don't have a roll bar. Clean your windows.
Other
The switch that turns on your brake lights is $13 from eurowebparts if it dies you don't drive, might want to have a spare, I now do.
Fuses, if they are as old as the car you might want to think about replacing them.
Wheel torque, I go for 90 ft/lbs, make sure they won't fall off but anything above 100 is way overkill.
At the track
Wheee, you are there ready to get down and since Mr. Penske is in the trees you are going to be in the IRL in No Time, NOT!!! There isn't anyone looking for new talent at any DE so check the ego and open the mind.
Bring some assorted tools you may need, quart or 2 of oil, torque wrench, tire pressure guage, brake fluid, tarp (to put your chit on), window cleaning suff, paper towels, duct tape or "racer's tape" some zip ties, anything else you might need.
Tires/wheels, bump up air pressure, ~35 lbs works for most street tires. The letters on the side are for identification not traction, bear this in mind. Check wheel torque.
Engine, make sure that all fluids are full and no leaks appeared on the way to the track. This is a good reason to keep a CLEAN engine compartment. Top off oil and check before EVERY run group.
Interior, empty the shit out.
Brakes, if you haven't bled, do it now. You did bring those tools, right? Brake pedal should be a brick.
Go to every classroom session.
Ride along with instructors and watch the faster groups.
Make sure car is warm before heading out.
On track
Relax, this is fun remember.
Check ego.
Eyes up! Look for flaggers.
Listen to your instructor, he/she is THE BOSS.
Build your speed slowly.
The LAST place to look for speed is under braking. I watched an NSX and 3 integras die at the same event because it was the first place they looked.
If you sense your brakes going away, BACK OFF, stay out there just take it easy. Run laps without using the brakes at all, great exercise.
On the way home
Take numbers off car and remember that you are NOT on the racetrack. My Mom is out there dammit.
You'll notice that I didn't mention anything about any modifications. Here is the rule if you are going to become a track junkie and you want to spend your day driving and not wrenching. Only upgrade/change parts that are going to make your car more durable for track use. Get some good tires, you don't have to go R compound but some good hi-po street tires. Make sure your brake system is at 100%, run some good pads and fluid, as mentioned above. If you are going to play with suspesion that is fine, just make sure that all your bushings etc are there/functioning/not blown out before you dump $1500 on some super-jammy go-fast trick of the week setup. Motor, outside of a chip and making sure its in top running conditon, leave it alone.
Look at what the instructors drive. Yes, their cars are more expensive and faster than yours thats because you'll find the wealthiest people at racetracks around the world (why are they all men). If they are not driving some sort of a racecar the car they are driving will (at least in New England) have a stock brake system, Hoosiers, mildly (if at all) upgraded suspension and a pretty much stock with the exception of a chip/intake motor. That's because all the super-jammy go-fast trick of the week stuff doesn't make you all that much faster, really.
Any other track peoples feel free to add or comment.
_________________
With great challenges comes great engineering.
Gunnar Reynisson
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